電腦輔助傳統製鞋流程設計

Abstract

以中小企業為主的台灣鞋業，在面臨生產鏈反全球化的情況下，轉型發展在地製造、販售的客製化手工鞋。但是在個性化、客製化鞋類需求逐漸多元的現今，傳統客製化手工鞋製作費時不符合現今市場需求，因此要如何縮短傳統客製化手工鞋製作的時間，就成了重要的議題。本研究以3D建模技術，來解決傳統客製化手工鞋的鞋楦製作與單向製作流程太過耗時等問題，以達到縮短製作流程的目的。 本文涉及傳統手工鞋製作與3D建模等研究範疇，傳統手工鞋製作包含傳統製鞋作業程序。3D建模則是包含了曲面建模、直接建模，雲端技術涵蓋了協同設計與互動迴路等功能，其要義在於應用3D建模縮短鞋楦製作及時間，及縮短部分製鞋流程。 為證明本研究的可行性，本研究架構流程系統，以皮鞋為例，實際進行驗證，透過同一個工匠製作相同的鞋款，進行比對兩種不同製鞋流程的工時差異。 實作發現，製作楦頭及開版時使用3D掃描、建模與列印的技術，可以節省修改楦頭的時間，還能多次修改外型。繪製完成的楦型可以透過雲端分享至其他設計師進行協力合作設計，或是透過雲端與消費者建立一個良好的溝通迴路。但是，3D軟體也有其使用上的限制，對於複雜的曲面無法展開製版，還有待後續研究者繼續努力。

Taiwanese footwear industry, which is dominated by small and medium-sized enterprises, is transforming and developing customized handmade shoes that are manufactured and sold in the country in the face of anti-globalization of the production chain. However, in the current situation of personalized and customized footwear, the traditional custom-made handmade shoes are not in line with the current market demand. Therefore, how to shorten the time of traditional customized handmade shoes has become an important issue. This research uses 3D modeling technology to solve the problem that the shoemaking and one-way production process of traditional customized handmade shoes are too time-consuming, so as to shorten the production process. This article covers traditional hand-made shoemaking and 3D modeling, and traditional hand-made shoemaking includes traditional shoe-making procedures. 3D modeling includes T-splines and direct modeling. The cloud technology covers functions such as collaborative design and interactive loop. The key point is to apply 3D modeling to shorten shoe lasting and time, and to shorten part of the shoemaking process. In order to prove the feasibility of this study, the structural process system of this study, taking leather shoes as an example, was actually verified, and the same shoe was made by the same craftsman to compare the working hours of the two different shoe-making processes. The implementation found that the use of 3D scanning, modeling and printing technology when making gimmicks and opening plates can save time in modifying gimmicks and can modify the appearance multiple times. The type of drawing can be shared through the cloud to other designers for collaborative design, or to establish a good communication loop with the consumer through the cloud. However, 3D software also has limitations in its use, and it is impossible to develop a plate for complex surfaces.